Behind the Seams: Why BTSA Might Be One of the Most Ethical Brands in the Garment Industry
In an unassuming facility in Compton, Behind the Scenes Apparel (BTSA) is quietly upending the notion that ethical, small-batch manufacturing can't compete with mass production. A minority-owned, vertically integrated factory, BTSA offers a rare trifecta in today’s garment industry — local manufacturing, ethical labor practices, and scalable custom services that center both creative vision and human values.
Backed by over two decades of domestic manufacturing experience, BTSA has built its reputation on doing things the right way — even when it’s harder, slower, or more expensive. As BTSA’s general manager, Daniel Oh explains, the philosophy is simple — the right way to do it is the best way to do it. Getting companies to understand that they should increase their budget to tell a meaningful story through their garments has often been one of the biggest challenges. “If you want it done right, we can’t cut any corners,” Oh explains. “BTSA has been around for seven years, but the owner has been manufacturing domestically since 2001, long before it was common to see things made in the U.S.”
Today, over 97% of clothing sold in the United States is manufactured overseas — a dramatic shift from the 1960s when approximately 95% of apparel worn in the U.S. was domestically produced. Between 1979 and 2019, the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reported that employment in the apparel and textile industries plummeted by 81%, falling from 2.2 million jobs to just 334,000. This offshoring trend has significantly diminished domestic garment production, rendering BTSA’s local-first approach increasingly rare.
Many overseas factories operate under weak labor laws and minimal environmental regulations, enabling brands to maximize profits while often avoiding accountability for labor and environmental standards. In contrast, as BTSA grows, maintaining that balance of quality, ethics, and community remains a priority. He explains, “All these infrastructures exist in the U.S. and other parts of the world. So we just have to keep sourcing all of our stuff from the right vendors and make sure that we’re abiding by all labor laws and ethical practices.”
BTSA’s commitment to excellence runs deep in their workplace culture. Oh points out, “Our team loves coming into work and has really built a community here. Even newer team members quickly experience the community vibe. We don’t think the culture is too hard to replicate — as long as upper management makes it clear that not only do we want people to work here, but we want them to be happy here. It’s not as hard as people think. It’s just about listening to them and seeing what they need.”
Still, scaling ethically comes with its own set of challenges. “We’re not worried about growth as much as we’re worried about people expecting us to reduce our prices as we get bigger. That’s just not feasible with the current reality of ethical practices in this industry. Somebody’s minimum wage or salary doesn’t reduce when the demand increases, right?”
That same attentiveness carries over to how BTSA works with client accounts of all sizes. “With anything related to production, planning is important and communication is extremely important,” he explains. “But we make sure to not lose sight of who we are and we still make sure emerging artists, growing brands, and startup companies get that same level of care and attention as a large client would get.”
Early clients were mostly designers who already had a deep understanding of the production process. This made it easier for BTSA to offer a service they consider key to their identity — color customization. Pantone, widely recognized as the global authority on color standards, provides a universal color matching system used across industries, including fashion and textiles, to ensure precise and consistent color reproduction. In garment manufacturing, Pantone colors enable designers and brands to communicate exact shades, preserving creative integrity from concept to finished product.
“Our logic with the whole ‘Pick any Pantone’ was mainly that it was going to be how we differentiate ourselves,” Oh shares. “We have all these people around us that want to tell their specific story through their brand, and it's hard to do that if they're using the same colored T-shirt as the person next to them.
That philosophy has evolved into a comprehensive system that prioritizes transparency at every step. Clients are educated about what’s possible with natural 100% cotton garments, including the limitations of digital versus physical color rendering. Sensitive Pantones are flagged in advance, and everything from dye tolerance to shrinkage is closely monitored through BTSA’s internal protocols. “We have systems in place to make sure garments are pre-shrunk and that everything is dyed consistently throughout all units. Our team even sends garments back to the dye house when needed to get the color right.”
Choosing a specific Pantone color requires deliberate decision-making, reflecting a deeper level of intentionality in the design process. This kind of intentionality is inherent in sustainable practices because it encourages brands to thoughtfully consider each element of their product — from material to color — reducing waste and fostering a meaningful connection with the garment. By using Pantone as a tool, BTSA’s clients not only express their unique identity but also participate in a more mindful, sustainable approach to fashion.
However, the practice of mindfulness isn’t very common when it comes to the garment industry. The majority of the fast fashion industry depends on a linear model of “make, use, dispose,” generating massive textile waste. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future (2017), the study warned that without systemic change, the industry could account for more than a quarter of the world’s carbon budget by 2050.
This level of environmental degradation isn’t sustainable, especially when fast fashion trends encourage overproduction and disposal of clothing after minimal use. BTSA’s choice to operate locally and transparently directly opposes this norm, offering clients an opportunity to participate in a more circular, mindful production model that emphasizes longevity, responsibility, and ethics.
The BTSA team is currently investing in marketing and educational materials to help new clients better understand the process and what it means to manufacture domestically. “We know we need to do more of that, and we’re excited to,” Oh said. “Hopefully as we put that information out there, it’s going to be more accessible and easier for people to understand what they’re getting themselves into, why they’re contacting us, and starting to work with us.”
When asked what advice they would give to someone just starting out in ethical production, the answer was clear — “You have to put in the time to research everything. If you’re really passionate about doing it the right way, you need to learn everything you can about it. Look to the past to see what’s been done so you can understand what’s possible now. That’s the thing I wish everybody had — a desire and willingness to learn. So if you’re green to how things are made, you have to do the research. That’s my biggest piece of advice.” Oh added that his hope is that BTSA can be a resource in that journey. “We want to be a source of this information, so please reach out and ask.”
The broader environmental impact of garment manufacturing is staggering. The fashion industry is responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions, surpassing the combined emissions from international flights and maritime shipping. The dyeing and finishing processes involved in conventional fabric production contribute heavily to water pollution, accounting for around 20% of global industrial water pollution. These figures underscore the urgent need for sustainable practices within the textile industry.
Despite the uphill battle of building something different in an industry that often prioritizes speed and profit over quality and care, the BTSA team is undeterred. “That steep hill is actually getting steeper,” Oh admitted. “But at the same time, I want to conquer it — and as a company, we want to conquer it. As long as we keep helping people execute their vision, I don’t think there’s going to be a lack of people wanting our services.” In other words, BTSA isn’t just manufacturing garments — they’re building a movement, right here in Los Angeles.
To learn more about BTSA, check out their website and follow them on Instagram.
Photos — BTSA
